Digital Wanderer

We live as long as we fly

Iceland — 26, day 13 — museums

We also went to the Reykjavik Art Museum, which has as many as three buildings. We visited two of them, and got our fill of art up to our eyeballs. The impression we got was positive, often the installations are interactive or have technological/scientific elements, just the way I like it.

A spacious concrete room with columns and a ceiling, illuminated by lamps. In the center, there is a translucent textile partition with several decorative elements, including openings and a piece of dark burgundy fabric.

A knitted house, no joke, a whole army of grannies put in the work

A kitchen installation made entirely of textiles in shades of gray, beige, and white. All elements, including cabinets, a countertop, a stove, and a sink, have a soft, stitched texture.

Knitted house is so knitted

A poster features step-by-step instructions for making a volcano cake, with illustrations showing how to bake a mountain-shaped chocolate cake and then create a red lava eruption effect.

Volcano cake

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Andrey

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Staring into space contest

A white wall covered with numerous handwritten names, notes, and drawings by visitors, with small copper rings, a hammer, and instruction text for an interactive art piece attached to it.

Stockpiling bioenergy in copper rings

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You can also make the famous tinfoil hat. The bourgeois are in on it too

A battered cover of a "Tom & Jerry Cartoon Festival" video cassette, showing a blue cat Tom cheerfully holding a gray mouse Jerry by the tail.

A cassette with cartoons

This cassette was watched by KGB guys during some important summit between the USA and the USSR in Reykjavik in 1986, and dudes from MIT begged it off a Russian colonel decades later. The summit could have led to all nuclear weapons being eliminated altogether, but, of course, we didn't get that lucky, although they did sign a treaty on some arms limitation.

A spacious courtyard of a white multi-story building with galleries and many doors along the perimeter. A lonely figure sits on an empty concrete floor in the center under an arched transparent roof.

The museum was converted from a port warehouse, there was a photoshoot going on inside

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You can relax near the cafe in the museum: read books, play chess

A large rectangular minimalist painting hangs on a white wall in an exhibition hall with wooden parquet. The canvas depicts a minimalist landscape with a horizon line, smoothly transitioning from an almost black bottom to a light gray sky.

I liked the painting, looked at it for a long time, it radiates peace

The painting is called Untitled, by Georg Guðni.

A textured painting depicts a stormy seascape with large white-gray shapes resembling rocks and crashing waves, under a dark, threatening sky. The entire composition is done in a characteristic mesh or relief pattern.

We chatted about this painting for a while with a lady from the US, forgot which state

The painting is called "Winter Landscape", the author is a very famous Icelandic painter Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval, so famous that he is depicted on the 2000 krona banknote.

The obverse and reverse sides of an Icelandic 2000 krona banknote. The obverse features a portrait of the painter Jóhannes S. Kjarval in a hat, and the reverse features a drawing with a female figure and the author's signature.

The lady saw quantum interactions in the painting, and was surprised how the painter could have sensed such groundbreaking concepts back in 1960. I liked her interpretation, but still wanted to say that it was a long shot. That's what's great about Americans — they are not shy to come up and chat, share and ask, push some topics. Everyone else just walks around staring blankly, not sharing their feelings.

We had a fruitful chat with this lady about the fusion of science and art, and she asked me to BE OPEN. I told her that I'm already too OPEN, it scares me sometimes. We did mean somewhat different things, though.

A painting in a wooden frame, depicting a barren mountain landscape with a wide rocky plain in the foreground under an overcast sky.

I liked this painting more, all that's written about it is Hellisheiði. That's the name of the largest geothermal power station in Iceland, and the second largest in the world. Make of that what you will.

I talked a bit about it with some young tourists from Europe passing by, but the conversation slid to our bike ride, and I was kind of tired of nodding to phrases like "Oh, you are so strong" by that time, so the chat fizzled out.

Skjaldbreiрur by Kjarval

Also an excellent painting, it's called "View of Mount Skjaldbreiður from Grafningur"

Soaked in Jóhannes Kjarval's interpretation of Icelandic nature, we headed back downtown.

Four identical book covers wrapped in plastic are arranged in two rows. Each cover features a sepia close-up of a young woman's face with a serious expression, below which is the inscription: «Galdrastelpan Celia Rees».

A bright mural in the shape of a giant mushroom is painted on a light building wall. Its cap consists of many small colorful mushrooms of various shapes under a clear blue sky.

As I already mentioned in the first post, things are totally fine with mushrooms in Iceland

Graffiti on a concrete wall forming a corner depicts a large pink elephant with its trunk lowered on the right side and a green abstract image on the left. Below the elephant, there are drawings of small houses and bottles, as well as a yellow Icelandic "Private Parking" sign with an image of a tow truck.

With graffiti, too

The blue wall of a building with a silver relief border on top is covered with various graffiti: faded lines of text, abstract white figures (including one with the number «5» and the signature «RAEL»), as well as bright pink-orange graffiti and a caricature of a plump man at the bottom.

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And secondhand bookshops are doing alright as well

Punk was gloomily walking around the city, displeased with something again, and I went to the Phallological Museum. The museum is small, but packed wall-to-wall with alcohol-preserved and dried exhibits.

The museum features a huge yellowish whale penis in a tall glass display case with liquid. Next to it stands a dark wooden sculpture in the shape of a phallus, and other exhibits are visible on the wall.

This one belongs to an Orca

A museum display case demonstrating the concept of "legal length": a white sheet of paper shows names in Icelandic, English, and German, as well as the comparative sizes of five inches from different cultures in centimeters. An antique wooden folding ruler lies diagonally on the sheet.

And here's a story about how long a dick must be to legally satisfy a wife

I think I make the cut, but I can't say for sure, those kinds of questions interested me about 10 years ago.

A museum exhibit consisting of a glass display case with silver phallic sculptures, above which is a plaque with a photo of the Icelandic men's national handball team from 2008.

Casts of the organs of Iceland's handball team, silver medalists of the 2008 Beijing Olympics

While I was looking at this exhibit, a middle-aged woman walked up, burst out laughing and started actively discussing with me the fact that the Icelanders' sizes are a bit lacking, whereas her ex's was whoa. Then we got to jokingly bantering about relationships between the sexes. It turned out she was from California, lives in Paris, and just can't bring herself to dump her boyfriend from London, keeps going back to him, even though he's an asshole.

I'll leave out the rest of the personal details from our conversation, except for one funny one: it turns out she had made a cast of her boyfriend's phallus too, as a keepsake. They say men can't even understand why women keep photos of their exes, and here we have the next step in evolution.

Outside a white multi-story building there is a bar called "The Icelandic Bar" with large windows and black awnings. In front of it on the cobblestone sidewalk, street tables and chairs are set up and stacked, while people walk by.

At the tourist center, I asked where I could finally eat some rotten fish. For those who aren't in the loop yet: it's a traditional Icelandic dish: shark meat fermented in the ground for several months. This is necessary because fresh shark is poisonous, whereas the slightly rotten one is perfectly fit for consumption.

The girl kept asking me again and again what I meant: maybe dried vobla? Her coworker caught on, and asked: you mean the shark? Then you need to go to the Icelandic Bar.

And so that's where I went. The lovely young female bartenders poured me a glass of local caraway-flavored potato schnapps called Brennivín, full to the brim, and served a few pieces of shark and a toothpick.

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I had to drink it, tradition. It went down surprisingly smoothly, as if it wasn't 40 degrees. The shark was disappointing: not nearly as stinky and pungent as expected. Beaver musk went down way harsher when I tried it in Dviete nature park, the terrible taste lingered until evening.

A white bowl is filled with orange soup, with a silver spoon resting in it. Splashes of soup are visible on the inside edges of the bowl, and a dark wooden table serves as the background.

Punk went to a restaurant. In Iceland in any restaurant even one, the most plebeian dish like "fish mash" costs more than 10 Ls. So I went to a bistro with a certificate of honor, where they serve traditional Icelandic food. I figure it's something like our "Vesma". There I had a two-course lunch for 10 lats, soup and fish cakes. Everything was very tasty.

A dish is served on a black compartmentalized plate: two golden fried croquettes, small potatoes in a brown sauce, green peas, and stewed red cabbage. A metal fork rests on the plate.

 

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Chatted with some Singaporeans about the automatic crapper

The toilet in the photo is self-washing inside after every passenger. The wait is long, it looks battered, but at least it's free. Washing hands there is inconvenient, and washing clothes is completely impossible.

A tall dark green advertising column with a "WC" sign and "Live it" posters for Icelandic outdoor clothing stands on a city street among buildings.

By evening we finally made it to the botanical garden, a big one full of exotic and not-so-exotic plants. It's located right next to the campsite, which is why we came late. Luckily, it turned out they don't close it for the night, and considering the white nights in Iceland, you can walk around until morning. How all this beauty grows at +14 degrees is a mystery, they probably heat it with thermal water.

A pond in the foreground, surrounded by large stones with small plants and labels. Behind it are green lawns with winding paths, white footbridges, and dense vegetation under a light sky.

Large green lobed leaves fill most of the foreground, with a dense forest of dark tree trunks visible behind them. The scene is lit by soft, diffused light.

Maplus giganticus

An information stand of the Reykjavik Botanical Garden with an illustrated map of the territory, a legend in Icelandic and English, and opening hours.

There's also a rock garden in the park, by the way

A young palm-like tree with thin spreading leaves grows in a flowerbed among green herbaceous plants against a background of trees in the garden.

A close-up of a spruce branch with young pinkish-brown cones, illuminated by the rays of the setting sun. Blurred outlines of other coniferous trees are visible in the background.

In the evening we returned to the campsite, and I must say a few words about it, too. Life is always boiling there, a hangout spot, there is laggy Wi-Fi, a kitchen with a stove and a kettle, and the best part — boxes of grub left by previous occupants. They have everything you can imagine: pasta and rice, salt and sugar, various spices, you even come across margarine and bread. As for drinks, there's tea, coffee, and instant Nesquik cocoa. There is plenty of vegetable oil, and some people were even frying pancakes from the right kind of flour. Don't even get me started on the packet soups and ramen, or the ketchup and mustard. A real feast for the budget tourist!

If you're in Reykjavik and have nothing to eat, feel free to head over to the campsite, you can score some dishes there, and have a hearty meal, all for free.

In similar free boxes nearby, there is plenty of gas for burners, mugs, plates and other household items, you even come across boots, so you won't perish here either.

Two large orange thermos dispensers with coffee, a jug of milk, wooden stirrers, sugar, and stacks of paper cups sit on a wooden table.

In some Icelandic banks on a cold rainy day you can warm up with a cup of coffee, with cream and sugar, free of charge

The day, as you can see, turned out to be action-packed, it's even surprising how much we learned and saw. The most memorable thing was the heart-to-heart with the Californian woman, but the lady in the museum was also no slouch, because art is power!